Form fitting coat construction

ABSTRACT

An improved form fitting coat construction is herein described having two front panels with interliners secured to the insides thereof and having sleeves of a unique construction. Each front panel is formed with a single dart extending generally vertically, midway between an apex point and an anatomical side line of the panel. The dart extends downwardly from a point, beneath the level of the armhole, to a side pocket formed in the front panel. Preferably the dart is formed by merely sewing the material, without slashing. The interliner includes a major layer of material having a rear edge which crosses over the single dart at the approximate mid-point thereof. Each sleeve is of a unitary, single piece construction and may include two elongated sections which terminate at a jacket-connecting end with a generally circular sleeve cap extending from the end of one section and a generally circular cutout being formed in the second section adjacent the sleeve cap.

United States Patent 1 [111 3,812,540

Pagano 1 May 28, 1974 FORM FITTING COAT CONSTRUCTION PrimaryExaminerWerner l-l. Schroeder V M 7 V I 7 A 4 i I Attorney, Agent, orFirm-Sandoe, Hopgood & [76] Inventor: Ralph R. Pagano, 118 87 St., c liafde Brooklyn, NY. 11209 22 Filed: Sept. 11, 1972 [57] ABSTRACT App].No.: 287,617

An improved form fitting coat construction is herein described havingtwo front panels with interliners secured to the insides thereof andhaving sleeves of a unique construction. Each front panel is formed witha single dart extending generally vertically, midway between an apexpoint and an anatomical side line of the panel. The dart extendsdownwardly from a point, beneath the level of the armhole, to a sidepocket 'formed in the front panel. Preferably the dart is formed bymerely sewing the material, without slashing. The interliner includes amajor layer of material having a rear edge which crosses over the singledart at the approximate mid-point thereof. Each sleeve is of a unitary,single piece construction and may include two elongated sections whichterminate at a jacketconnecting end with a generally circular sleeve capextending from the end of one section and a generally circular cutoutbeing formed in the second section adjacent the sleeve cap.

7 Claims, 5 Drawing Figures mimmma'a 1914 3'812 540 sum 2 or 2BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to theconstruction of coats and jackets and, more specifically, relates toform-fitting coats having a uniquely simplified con struction.

Heretofore, it had been believed that form-fitting suit coats, sportsjackets, and the like, required: a plurality of darts formed in thefront panels of each garment; interliner constructions having aplurality of darts, slits, stitches, slashes, insertions and the like;the two-piece sleeves.

When form-fitting jackets are manufactured in accordance with the priorteachings, there is considerable expense with respect to material, laborand in-process time of manufacturing. To date, it has been consideredimpractical or even impossible to simplify the construction ofform-fitting jackets so as to eliminate many of the steps required byformer teachings.

Undoubtedly, it would be advantageous if an improved coat constructionwere provided which would eliminate many of the steps and devicespresently considered necessary for building a form-fitting garment suchas a business suit or a sports coat.

OBJECTS AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is therefore, an object of thepresent invention to provide an improved form-fitting jacket having aconstruction which permits the elimination of a substantial number oflabor operations and materials which are generally considered necessaryin the building of such garments.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a form-fittingcoat construction which requires less inventory-in-process time in thebuilding thereof than required in existing constructions forform-fitting coats.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide a coatconstruction which facilitates design control and thereby lowers thecost of producing formfitting garments with certain desirable designfeatures.

At least some of the above cited objects are achieved by the provisionof a coat construction including two front panels, full length sleeves,and an interliner secured to the inside of each front panel. Theimprovement generally resides in the forming of each front panel withonly one dart which is vertically aligned midway between an anatomicalside line of the garment and the chest apex point thereof. In anotherfeature of the invention, the interliner is formed with a rear edgewhich intersects generally through the midpoint of the one dart formedin the front panel. The interliner may include a plurality of flatpieces of material which are formed without darts, slits, and the like.In another feature of the invention, each sleeve is formed of a singleintegral piece having two generally longitudinal sections. A jacketconnecting portion of each section may be formed so that a generallycircular sleeve cap extends longitudinally from one section anda'generally circular (armhole) cutout is formed in the other section.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS While the invention is particularlypointed out and distinctly claimed in a concluding portion of thespecification, a preferred embodiment is set forth in the followingdetailed description which may be best understood when read inconnection with the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is an overview of the face area of an assembled front panelsection according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a view of the underside area of a front panel assembly showingone interliner, according to the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a view of the underside area of an assembled front panel whichis a modification of the assembly shown in FIG. 2;

' FIG. 4 is an overview of a one-piece, form-fitting, setin sleeveaccording to the present invention; and

FIG. 5 is a diagramatic illustration showing how the sleeve according tothe present invention, form fits on a human subject.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now to thedrawings, in which like numerals are used to indicate like partsthroughout the various views thereof, FIG. 1 shows an overview of theface area of an assembled front panel section, according to the presentinvention.

Essentially, the front panel comprises a front edge 10, a side edge 12,a lapel tab portion 14 and an armhole cutout 16. A point 22 identifiesthe position of the overall panel which falls over the chest nipple of awearer and which will hereinafter be referred to as the apex point" ofthe front panel. A side pocket 18 may be provided in the conventionallocation and may be formed in accordance with prior art teachings.

In accordance with the present invention, a single, and only a single,dart 20 is formed in the front panel to extend generally verticallyupwardly from the top of pocket 18. The dart 20 must be verticallyaligned approximately midway between an anatomical side line 24 and theapex point 22. The anatomical side line 24 generally comprises avertical line extending through the approximate center of the armhole 16of the front panel and falls along the center of the side of a wearerstorso.

The inventor has unexpectedly discovered, that by this criticalplacement of the dart 20, the front panel is provided with remarkableform-fitting shape so as to exhibit excellent body tracing form. Sincethe placement of the dart 20 tapers a coat at the most hollow or concaveportion of a wearers torso, shaping is developed at the most desirablearea of the garment for form-fitting purposes.

Other unexpected results generated by this critical placement will bedescribed, more particularly, in the following paragraphs.

Referring now to FIG. 2, a view of the underside area of a front panelassembly is shown with a unique interliner which has been securedthereto by a heat fusing process. The interliner may be formed of one ora plurality of superimposed layers; one of which, the major interlineris the largest and is the layer directly fused to the front panel. Ifonly a single layer interliner is used, that layer will be the majorinterliner 70.

FIG. 2 shows a three-layer interliner wherein each layer comprises anintegral piece of material having an uninterrupted perimeter and beingformed without darts, slashes, kyles, gores, cutouts, or insertedsections. The major layer 70 is fused directly to the inside of thefront panel. A second layer 71, which preferably comprises hair cloth,is sandwiched between the layer 70 and a third layer 72.

In constructing the interliner, according to the present invention, allthree layers 70, 71 and 72 are positioned as indicated in FIG. 2, andthe heat fusing is done in one operation. In the embodiment of thepresent invention, illustrated in FIG. 2, the second layer 71, may fallinch from the shoulder edge of the front panel; whereas, the major layer70 and the layer 72 are congruent with the shoulder edge of the frontpanel.

The perimeter of the fused major layer 70 includes a I front edge 11which may be positioned to be approximately V4 inch from the'edge of thepanel. The top edge 13 of the layer 70 may be positioned approximately Ainch from the top of the lapel 14 and may be cut to become co-extensivewith the neck, shoulder and armhole of the front panel.

The rear edge of the major layer 70 comprises a concave curve commencingfrom a point approximately-l inch forward of the anatomical side line 24and extending through the center of the panel so as to pass through theapproximate midpoint of the dart 20. The curve of the rear edgeis'indicated at 15. The concave curve 15 may then be somewhat flattenedout and continued to a point approximately one-third of the distancebetween the edges 10 and 12 and A inch above the bottom edge 17 of thefront panel.

FIG. 2 shows the rear edge of the major layer 70 covering the top halfof the single dart 20 and the front section of the pocket pouch 61.Although the arrangement and proportions of the various elementscomprising the front panel must be arranged generally as shown in FIG.2, the exact dimensions of the various elements may be varied withrespect to the fabric used, the size and type coat.

It will be noted that the single dart 20 is depicted in FIG. 2 by avertical broken line and a solid line. The solid line represents thedart fold as it lays pressed, facing the center front edge 10 of thefront panel, and the broken line indicates the stitch line of the dart.It is preferable that the dart not be cut, but merely folded.

This construction of a front panel assembly eliminates the floatingchest piece which is generally considered necessary in prior artgarments. Of course, the construction also eliminates the cost of laborand material involved in building the floating chest piece into agarment.

FIG. 3 is a view of the underside area of an assembled front panel whichis a modification of the assembly shown in FIG. 2. In FIG. 3 the layersof the interliner 70, 71 and 72 are first superimposed, apart from thepanel, and fused together as a solid interliner.

The fused interliner sub-assembly is then sewn to the front panel withapproximately a 54 inch seam allowance along the armhole, shoulder andneck, up to the lapel bridle line. Thereafter, the sewing continuesapproximately 6 inches down from the neck, along the bridle lapelfold-break. Numeral 74 indicates the armhole, shoulder and neck stitchesand 74a shows the sewing along the bridle lapel fold-break.

Following the interliner operation, baste (machine) stitch 75 is formedvertically down the center of the interliner. The stitch 75 stabilizesthe panel assembly for sewing the interliner to the pocket pouch 61.This last mention sewing is indicated by stitches 76. Thereafter, asecond machine baste 77 secures the lapel area of the front panelassembly prior to machine padding the interliner to the lapel of thefront panel.

When the interliner is assembled and attached to the front panel bysewing, it is preferable to have the major layer extend approximately V4inch beyond the center front edge 10, the lapel top edge 11, and thefront neck of the front panel in order to allow tolerance for operatorvariation in the paddingof lapel. Otherwise, the arrangement and thegeneral proportions of the interliner, in the embodiment shown in FIG.3, may be the same as those illustrated in FIG. 2.

Referring now to FIG. 4, an overview of an integral, one piece,form-fitting, set-in sleeve 34 is shown as comprising a piece ofmaterial which is somewhat symmetrical about a center line 40. Thecenter line 40 divides the piece of material into two sections 44 and46. At the upper terminal end of the piece of material, as shown in FIG.4, an edge 42 is formed to define a sleeve top, consisting of a set-in,sleeve cap perimeter 48 and an underarm hole perimeter 49, which definesthe underarm cutout 50. The edge 42, defining the sleeve cap 48, joinswith edge 36which comprises an overarm" convex perimeter and 49 joinswith the opposite edge 38 to form the-underarm convex perimeter. At theopposite end of the piece of material 42, a wrist perimeter 45 comprisesa concave curve which intersects with the lower extensions of the edges36 and 38. Tabs and 92 may be provided for any particular stylizedopening for a buttoned sleeve cuff. The details'of these tabs areoptional, depending upon the style of garment desired.

The general center line 40 is a line of roll fold line" which extendsalong the inner arm, extending from the armhole to the wrist, at a pointabove the thumb joint. When the piece of material, shown in FIG. 4, issewn with the edges 36 and 38 joined and the edge 42 connected withassembled back and front panels, the finished sleeve hangs with anatural anatomical forward pitch of a wearers forearm. Accordingly, thesleeve follows the natural contour of a wearers suspended arm, from theshoulder, through the elbow and to the wrist. Heretofore, such aform-fitting sleeve, comprising a single integral piece of material, wasconsidered to be impractical or impossible.

- FIG. 5 indicates the effect achieved by assembling a sleeve accordingto the present invention.

In order to assemble the shoulder pad and sleeve, of the presentinvention, a sleeve head pad is sewn to the sleeve cap. The shoulder padis positioned within the jacket and tacked to the jacket without beingconnected, in any way, to the coat lining. The sleeve lining is thensewn to the armhole of the jacket lining. Through this construction, thesleeve and shoulder pad assembly may be constructed more quickly anddoes not require the high degree of skill required of workers usingpresent method. Another advantage in utilizing this construction in thatthe construction facilitates the busheling of the shoulder when acustomer desires a change in the dimension or placement of the shoulderpad.

It can thus be seen that an improved form-fitting coat construction hasbeen herein described which facilitates design control and which is fareasier to manufacture than existing garment configurations. Theinventive coat construction also provides remarkable formfitting figuretracing and may be built by a person having less skill than required forbuilding existing constructions.

Although the expediency of a single dart has been utilized from time totime in the construction of shirts in square or block jacketconfigurations, it has heretofore been considered impractical or evenimpossible to build a form-fitting suit jacket or sports coat utilizinga single dart. Accordingly, the inventor has unexpectedly found that, bycritically placing the dart, a form-fitting garment may be provided.

The discovery of the critical placement of the dart synergisticallypermits the utilization of a flat interliner construction which may beinstalled with the expediency of heat fusing, in a manner well known inthe art. Additionally, the combined construction of the criticallyplaced single dart and a flat interliner, having a concaveedge fallingthrough the approximate midpoint of the dart, facilitates the use of asingle piece, set-in sleeve. Heretofore, the use of flat interliners orof a single piece sleeve in form-fitting coats and jackets was alsoconsidered to be impractical or impossible.

SCOPE OF THE INVENTION While what has been described herein is apreferred embodiment of the present invention, it is of course to beunderstood that various modifications and changes may be made thereinwithout departing from the invention. For example, the construction ofthe present invention is applicable to top coats, over coats, businesssuits, sportswear, boys clothing, girls clothing, ladies clothing, etc.Accordingly, it is intended to cover in the following claims all suchmodifications and changes as may fall within the true spirit and scopeof the present invention.

What l claim is:

l. in a form fitting coat construction, including two front panels, fulllength sleeves, and an interliner secured to the inside of each frontpanel, the improvement comprising:

each front panel being formed with an armhole and only one dart;

said one dart being vertically aligned substantially equidistant agenerally vertical center line of the armhole and an apex point of thepanel, said center line falling along the center of the side of awearers torso.

2. The improvement according to claim 1, wherein said dart extendsvertically upwardly from a side pocket, formed in the front panel, to apoint beneath the level of an armhole formed in the panel.

3. In the coat construction, according to claim 1:

said interliner including a major layer of flat material beingintegrally formed so as to present an uninterrupted perimeter and havinga rear edge defining a concave curve which falls across a generalmidpoint of said one dart.

4. The improvement according to claim 3, wherein said interlinerincludes three layers of material; and

two of the three layers are heat fused to the third layer, the majorlayer.

5. The improvement according to claim 1, wherein:

said piece of material, comprising said sleeve, is formed withlongitudinal edges consisting of an over-arm convex perimeter and anunder-arm concave perimeter; and

a second end portion is formed to define a concave wrist perimeter.

7. The improvement according to claim 6, wherein:

said sleeve cap is sewn to the material defining an armhole in theassembled coat;

a shoulder pad is operationally secured to the shoulder portion of theassembled coat; and

a lining is sewn to the inside of both the sleeve and the remainingportion of the coat, said lining being unconnected to the pad.

1. In a form fitting coat construction, including two front panels, fulllength sleeves, and an interliner secured to the inside of each frontpanel, the improvement comprising: each front panel being formed with anarmhole and only one dart; said one dart being vertically alignedsubstantially equidistant a generally vertical center line of thearmhole and an apex point of the panel, said center line falling alongthe center of the side of a wearer''s torso.
 2. The improvementaccording to claim 1, wherein said dart extends vertically upwardly froma side pocket, formed in the front panel, to a point beneath the levelof an armhole formed in the panel.
 3. In the coat construction,according to claim 1: said interliner including a major layer of flatmaterial being integrally formed so as to present an uninterruptedperimeter and having a rear edge defining a concave curve which fallsacross a general mid-point of said one dart.
 4. The improvementaccording to claim 3, wherein said interliner includes three layers ofmaterial; and two of the three layers are heat fused to the third layer,the major layer.
 5. The improvement according to claim 1, wherein: eachsaid sleeve comprises only one, integral piece of material beinggenerally symmetrical about a longitudinally extending center line topresent two longitudinal sections; and a jacket-connecting end portion,hereinafter the first end portion, of each said sleeve is formed with asleeve cap extending longitudinally from one section and a generallycircular cutout is formed in the second longitudinal section thereof. 6.The improvement according to claim 5, wherein: said piece of material,comprising said sleeve, is formed with longitudinal edges consisting ofan over-arm convex perimeter and an under-arm concave perimeter; and asecond end portion is formed to define a concave wrist perimeter.
 7. Theimprovement according to claim 6, wherein: said sleeve cap is sewn tothe material defining an armhole in the assembled coat; a shoulder padis operationally secured to the shoulder portion of the assembled coat;and a lining is sewn to the inside of both the sleeve and the remainingportion of the coat, said lining being unconnected to the pad.